Guilin, with its surreal karst mountains and the meandering Li River, often captures the imagination of travelers worldwide. Yet, beyond the postcard-perfect landscapes lies a quieter, more intimate side of the city—the ancient streets that whisper tales of a bygone era. These old streets, or laojie (老街), are not just thoroughfares; they are living museums, vibrant cultural hubs, and gastronomic paradises. Exploring them offers a glimpse into the soul of Guilin, where history, tradition, and modernity coalesce in a captivating dance.
At the core of Guilin’s urban life lies Zhengyang Pedestrian Street, a bustling artery that pulses with energy day and night. Stretching from the iconic Sun and Moon Pagodas to the Central Square, this street seamlessly blends ancient architectural elements with contemporary commerce. The buildings here, with their grey-tiled roofs and white-washed walls, reflect the traditional Lingnan style, while trendy cafes, souvenir shops, and international brands cater to the modern traveler.
One cannot talk about Zhengyang Street without mentioning its food scene. The air is thick with the aroma of sizzling snacks—stinky tofu (chòu dòufu), a divisive yet beloved delicacy; Guilin rice noodles (Guìlín mǐfěn), a breakfast staple served with pickled vegetables and peanuts; and oil tea (yóu chá), a savory, energizing brew unique to the region. Street vendors line the cobblestone paths, their stalls overflowing with local treats like water chestnut cakes and persimmon cakes. For those seeking a sit-down experience, traditional teahouses offer a respite, where you can sip on jasmine tea while watching the world go by.
Zhengyang Street is also a shopper’s delight. From hand-painted scrolls depicting Guilin’s landscapes to xiu (embroidery) products and locus wood carvings, the souvenirs here are deeply rooted in local culture. Artisans often demonstrate their crafts onsite, adding an interactive element to the shopping experience. As evening falls, the street transforms into a neon-lit spectacle, with live music performances and cultural shows adding to the festive atmosphere.
Tucked away near the city center, Dongxi Alley (东西巷) is a recently restored historic district that has quickly become a hotspot for both tourists and locals. Dating back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, this area was once a residential quarter for scholars and officials. Today, it stands as a testament to Guilin’s resilience, having been meticulously preserved to retain its ancient charm while embracing modern trends.
Wandering through Dongxi Alley feels like stepping into a time capsule. The narrow lanes are flanked by well-preserved qing dynasty buildings, characterized by their wooden beams, intricate carvings, and tranquil courtyards. The City Wall of Guilin, which runs alongside the alley, offers a tangible connection to the past. Visitors can climb the wall for panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the city skyline—a perfect blend of old and new.
What sets Dongxi Alley apart is its burgeoning hipster scene. Amidst the historic structures, you’ll find quirky boutiques, indie coffee shops, and craft breweries. Local entrepreneurs have infused the area with creativity, offering everything from handmade soaps to custom-designed qipao (cheongsam). The alley also hosts regular cultural events, such as calligraphy workshops and tea ceremonies, making it a dynamic space for cultural exchange.
Though technically not in Guilin city but in nearby Yangshuo County, West Street (西街) is an indispensable part of any Guilin itinerary. Known as the "global village," this street has been a magnet for backpackers and adventurers since the 1980s. Its unique fusion of Chinese culture and international influences creates a cosmopolitan vibe unlike anywhere else in the region.
West Street’s history as a trading post is evident in its diverse offerings. Here, you can savor authentic Italian pizza, French pastries, or Indian curry alongside local specialties like beer fish (píjiǔ yú), a Yangshuo classic. The street is lined with bilingual signs, and shopkeepers often speak multiple languages, reflecting its status as a hub for global nomads. At night, the area comes alive with live music pouring out of bars and pubs, where travelers from around the world share stories over a cold beer.
Beyond dining and shopping, West Street serves as a gateway to outdoor adventures. Rental shops offer bicycles and scooters for exploring the countryside, while tour agencies arrange everything from bamboo rafting on the Yulong River to rock climbing on the karst cliffs. The street’s infectious energy makes it the perfect place to plan excursions or simply unwind after a day of exploration.
While the aforementioned streets draw the crowds, Guilin’s true charm often lies in its quieter, hidden alleys. These lesser-known paths offer a more authentic glimpse into local life.
Along the banks of the Li River, small alleys meander through old neighborhoods where residents still practice traditional crafts. Here, you might stumble upon a cobbler repairing shoes by hand or a basket weaver crafting bamboo products. These areas are perfect for photography enthusiasts, with their decaying walls and lush greenery creating a poetic backdrop.
For an immersive cultural experience, visit the Qintan Morning Market, where locals have traded goods for centuries. Though not a street per se, the market sprawls through a network of alleys, offering everything from fresh produce to exotic herbs. It’s a sensory overload—the vibrant colors, the cacophony of vendors, the smell of spices—and a reminder of Guilin’s enduring traditions.
The old streets of Guilin are more than just tourist attractions; they are keepers of the city’s soul. They tell stories of dynasties past, of traders and scholars, of resilience and adaptation. In an age of rapid urbanization, these streets serve as a bridge between generations, preserving intangible heritage while evolving to meet contemporary needs.
Recent years have seen increased efforts to protect these historic areas. Local authorities have implemented measures to restore buildings without compromising their authenticity, and initiatives promoting sustainable tourism are gaining traction. Visitors are encouraged to support local artisans, reduce plastic waste, and respect cultural norms—ensuring that these streets remain vibrant for years to come.
For travelers, Guilin’s old streets offer a multidimensional experience. They are places to savor flavors, discover crafts, connect with locals, and lose yourself in history. Whether you’re navigating the crowds on Zhengyang Street, sipping coffee in Dongxi Alley, or dancing the night away on West Street, you’re participating in a living narrative—one that continues to unfold with each passing day.
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Author: Guilin Travel
Link: https://guilintravel.github.io/travel-blog/guilins-most-charming-old-streets.htm
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