Most postcards of Guilin feature the same iconic view: the jagged limestone karsts piercing the misty sky, with the serene Li River flowing gently below. It’s a breathtaking sight, the very image that has inspired Chinese poets and painters for centuries. And as a visitor, seeing it is an absolute must. But if you only chase that postcard, you might miss the city’s best-kept secret, the place where the soul of Guilin truly resides—not on the outskirts, but right in its vibrant heart. This is the Two Rivers and Four Lakes (两江四湖, Liǎng Jiāng Sì Hú) project, a masterpiece of urban renewal that is, without a doubt, a local’s favorite.
Forget the idea of a simple park or a single scenic spot. This is an intricate, interconnected water system weaving through the city center, a liquid tapestry connecting the Li River and the Peach Blossom River (桃花江, Táohuā Jiāng) with four stunning lakes:榕湖 (Ronghu), 杉湖 (Shanhu), 桂湖 (Guihu), and 木龙湖 (Mulonghu). By day, it’s a lush, green oasis for walking, cycling, and daily life. By night, it transforms into a dazzling spectacle of illuminated bridges and pagodas. This is where Guilin lives, breathes, and unwinds.
To understand why locals adore this area, you have to understand its history. For over a thousand years, these waterways were the lifeblood of Guilin, used for transport, trade, and daily sustenance. However, by the late 20th century, parts of the system had become polluted and disconnected. The visionary Two Rivers and Four Lakes project, completed in the early 2000s, wasn’t just about cleaning up the environment; it was about restoring the city’s historical connection to its water.
Today, the area is the city’s premier public space. You won’t find the same tourist crowds here as you would at the more famous Elephant Trunk Hill during peak hours. Instead, you’ll see grandparents practicing Tai Chi under ancient banyan trees, friends sharing laughter over a game of Chinese chess, couples strolling hand-in-hand along the willow-lined promenades, and fitness enthusiasts jogging on the perfectly maintained paths. This is the real, unfiltered Guilin.
Each of the four lakes has its own unique character, offering a different experience as you wander from one to the next.
Starting in the south, Ronghu and Shanhu are the most central and elegant. They are nestled right beside the city’s main commercial district, creating a beautiful juxtaposition of modern urban life and serene nature. Shanhu Lake is famous for the Sun and Moon Pagodas (日月双塔, Rìyuè Shuāng Tǎ). The Copper Pagoda (Sun) and the Glazed Pagoda (Moon) stand close together, connected by an underwater tunnel. At night, they are brilliantly lit, their golden and silver reflections dancing on the water’s surface—a truly magical sight. Ronghu, named after the ancient banyan trees (榕树, róngshù) on its shores, feels more intimate, with charming arched bridges like the Crystal Bridge adding a romantic touch.
Moving north, you reach Guihu Lake, the largest of the four. This area feels more expansive and wild. The paths are wider, the greenery is lusher, and it’s a favorite spot for locals to fly kites on a breezy afternoon. The landscape here is designed to mimic the natural karst scenery, with small hills and rockeries seamlessly integrated into the park. It’s a place for quiet contemplation and escaping the city buzz without ever leaving it.
Finally, Mulong Lake is the historical gem. It’s the only man-made lake in the system, created specifically to connect the inner lakes to the Li River. This area is designed to resemble the scenery of the Song Dynasty. The centerpiece is the reconstructed Ancient South Gate and the majestic Mulong Pagoda perched on a hilltop. Standing here, with the old city wall behind you and traditional architecture surrounding you, it’s easy to imagine ancient Guilin. It’s a powerful link to the city’s rich past.
While locals love the area for its daytime amenities, the number one tourist attraction within the Two Rivers and Four Lakes system is undoubtedly the night cruise. And let me tell you, it is worth every penny. This is not just a boat ride; it’s a mesmerizing journey through a dreamscape.
As dusk falls, the entire water system comes alive with a sophisticated light show. The pagodas, pavilions, trees, and, most impressively, the bridges are all artistically illuminated. The cruise takes you through a series of locks, raising and lowering the boat to navigate the different water levels between the lakes and rivers.
The true stars of the cruise are the bridges. Guilin boasts that the Two Rivers and Four Lakes area features "a bridge for every sight, and each sight unique from its bridge." There are over 20 bridges, and no two are alike. You’ll glide under the classic Chinese arches of the Ancient South Gate Bridge, the modern steel curves of the Glass Bridge near Ronghu, and the whimsical, European-style Lijun Bridge. Each bridge is lit with a different color and design, creating a constantly changing panorama. The guides on the boat provide commentary (usually in Mandarin, but sometimes with English headphones available), sharing the stories and symbolism behind each structure. It’s an architectural tour like no other.
As much as I recommend the cruise, to truly experience this area like a local, you have to get off the water and onto your own two feet.
The entire system is encircled by a continuous, paved path that is perfect for a long, leisurely walk or a bike ride. Renting a bicycle is incredibly easy and cheap in Guilin. Spend an afternoon cycling the full loop. Stop whenever you want—to watch fishermen, to sip a tea at a lakeside café, or simply to sit on a bench and people-watch. This freedom to explore at your own pace is what makes the experience so special. You’ll discover hidden corners, quiet gardens, and spontaneous performances that you’d completely miss from a boat.
For the most breathtaking views, time your visit for sunrise or sunset. Early in the morning, the lakes are often shrouded in a gentle mist, with locals practicing their morning exercises. The light is soft, and the city is peacefully quiet. At sunset, head to the shores of Shanhu Lake to watch the Sun and Moon Pagodas begin to glow against the twilight sky. It’s a photographer’s paradise and a moment of pure tranquility.
No local’s guide would be complete without mentioning food. The areas surrounding the lakes, especially near Zhengyang Pedestrian Street, are packed with dining options. After your walk, skip the generic tourist restaurants and look for places filled with locals. You can find everything from Guilin’s world-famous rice noodles (Guìlín mǐfěn) in a humble shop to more upscale restaurants serving beer fish (píjiǔ yú), a local specialty from the Li River. For a unique experience, some small food stalls set up near the lakes in the evening, offering a chance to grab a snack and enjoy the cool night air.
The Two Rivers and Four Lakes project is more than just a pretty face; it’s a brilliant example of sustainable urban tourism. It successfully took an environmental challenge and turned it into the city’s greatest asset. It provides a green lung for the city, improves the quality of life for residents, and offers a world-class attraction for visitors—all without the environmental footprint of building a new theme park or resort. It demonstrates how cities can honor their history and natural environment while creating a vibrant, modern space for everyone to enjoy.
So, when you plan your trip to Guilin, by all means, take that boat cruise down the Li River to Yangshuo. It will be the highlight of your photo album. But save a full day, or better yet, two, for the Two Rivers and Four Lakes. Wander its paths, cycle its shores, chat with the friendly locals, and take the night cruise. This is where you’ll move from being a spectator of Guilin’s beauty to truly feeling its pulse. This is the Guilin that we, who are lucky enough to call it home, love the most.
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Author: Guilin Travel
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Source: Guilin Travel
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