The Li River is a ribbon of jade, winding its way through a landscape so surreal it seems pulled from a classical Chinese painting. Karst peaks, like the spines of sleeping dragons, pierce the misty sky. And on its tranquil waters, a scene from a thousand years ago unfolds. An elderly fisherman, clad in a traditional conical hat, stands precariously on the narrow prow of a bamboo raft. He is not alone. His companions are not men, but birds—large, black, with sinuous necks and sharp, hooked beaks. These are cormorants, and their synchronized dance with the fisherman is one of Guilin’s most iconic and mesmerizing spectacles: the Cormorant Fishing Show.
This is not merely a performance; it is a living, breathing fragment of history, a testament to a symbiotic relationship between man and nature that has defined this region for generations. For the modern traveler, it is an unmissable experience, a chance to witness a tradition that is as much about art as it is about survival.
To understand the cormorant fishing show is to look beyond the flashbulbs and the applause. It is to appreciate a practice that dates back over a thousand years in China, a method of fishing that was once a primary source of sustenance along the Li and Li Jiang rivers.
The relationship between the fisherman and his cormorants is one of deep trust and training, often beginning when the birds are just fledglings. The fisherman, or yūfū, becomes their caretaker, trainer, and partner. He feeds them, houses them, and teaches them the intricate signals and commands that govern their hunt. The birds, in turn, are master fishers, capable of diving deep and pursuing fish with remarkable agility.
The most fascinating aspect for observers is the method itself. A snug ring, traditionally made from reed or bamboo, is tied around the base of the cormorant’s neck. This prevents the bird from swallowing larger fish, which are stored in its expandable throat pouch. Once the cormorant surfaces with a catch, the fisherman skillfully coaxes the bird to relinquish its prize. The cormorant is then rewarded with a smaller, easier-to-swallow fish. It’s a system of elegant efficiency, honed over centuries.
In the 21st century, modern fishing techniques and environmental regulations have rendered traditional cormorant fishing largely obsolete as a commercial practice. However, its cultural value is immeasurable. Recognizing its appeal, local communities have preserved this heritage through these scheduled shows. They serve a dual purpose: they provide a sustainable livelihood for the aging generation of fishermen who possess these rare skills, and they offer visitors a powerful, tangible connection to China’s rich past. It is a performance born from necessity, now sustained by a shared desire to keep history alive.
Attending a cormorant fishing show is a multi-sensory journey. It typically takes place in the early evening, as the sun begins to set behind the karst peaks, casting the river in a warm, golden light. This timing is not accidental; it mimics the traditional fishing hours and adds a layer of dramatic beauty to the proceedings.
The location is everything. Most shows are held on a calm section of the Li River, often with the stunning backdrop of specific peaks like Elephant Trunk Hill or amidst the serene beauty of the Yangshuo countryside. The reflections of the mountains on the water’s surface create a mirror image, making the bamboo rafts and their occupants appear as if they are gliding through a dream. The air is filled with the gentle lapping of water, the distant sounds of nature, and the soft, rhythmic splashes of the cormorants as they dive.
The show itself is a carefully choreographed ballet. The fisherman, often illuminated by the soft glow of a lantern hung from the front of the raft, uses a combination of voice commands, taps on the bamboo pole, and tugs on the leash attached to the birds. The cormorants, in response, dive and surface in a seemingly chaotic yet perfectly coordinated hunt. They disappear beneath the dark water, only to emerge moments later, a silvery fish wriggling in their beaks. The fisherman then guides his raft with a pole, maneuvering to collect the catch from each bird with swift, practiced movements.
The climax of the show often involves the fisherman demonstrating the birds' obedience, having them line up on the raft or even jump onto his arm or head. It’s a display of mutual trust that is both impressive and deeply moving.
As with any tradition involving animals, the cormorant fishing shows have sparked a conversation among modern travelers. It’s a topic worth exploring to form a fully rounded perspective.
From a cultural preservation standpoint, these shows are vital. They are a living museum exhibit, safeguarding a practice recognized as part of China's intangible cultural heritage. The skills required—from training the birds to building the bamboo rafts—are being passed down, albeit to a smaller audience. For the fishermen, this is their legacy. The shows allow them to continue their life's work and share a piece of their identity with the world. It is a celebration of human ingenuity and a harmonious relationship with the natural world, as it was understood for generations.
Some observers express concern about the welfare of the cormorants, particularly the use of the neck ring. It's important to understand that the rings used in these demonstrations are designed to be safe and are temporary. The birds are not starved; they are well-cared-for partners. A fisherman’s livelihood and pride are intrinsically linked to the health and performance of his birds. Reputable operators ensure the cormorants have ample rest, a nutritious diet, and are treated with respect. For the responsible traveler, the key is to support shows that are part of established, ethical tourism operations, often those affiliated with recognized cultural villages or reputable tour companies in Guilin and Yangshuo.
To ensure your cormorant fishing experience is as enriching and authentic as possible, a little planning goes a long way.
The shows are primarily an evening event. The best time to visit Guilin for pleasant weather is during the spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) months. The summer can be hot and humid, while the winter is cooler and mistier, which can also create a beautifully atmospheric setting.
While you can find shows right in Guilin city, the most breathtaking settings are in Yangshuo. Here, the performances are integrated into the stunning rural landscape, making for a more immersive and photogenic experience. Many tour operators in both Guilin and Yangshuo offer combined evening tours that include a Li River bamboo raft ride, the cormorant fishing show, and sometimes a demonstration of the Impression Sanjie Liu, a spectacular open-air theater production directed by Zhang Yimou.
This is a photographer’s dream, but the low-light conditions present a challenge. * Use a Fast Lens: If you have a DSLR or mirrorless camera, a lens with a wide aperture (e.g., f/1.8 or f/2.8) is ideal. * Embrace High ISO: Don’t be afraid to increase your camera’s ISO setting to capture the action without motion blur. * Stabilize Your Shot: A tripod can be useful, but since the action is on a moving raft, you might rely more on a steady hand or your camera’s image stabilization. * Tell a Story: Don’t just focus on the birds catching fish. Capture the fisherman’s weathered hands, the glow of the lantern on the water, the silhouette of the raft against the sunset. These details tell the richer story.
A cormorant fishing show is a perfect complement to other iconic Guilin activities. A classic day might involve: * A morning cruise down the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo, soaking in the world-famous scenery. * An afternoon exploring Yangshuo’s countryside by bicycle, wandering through fields and small villages. * An evening enjoying a local beer fish dish for dinner, followed by the serene and unforgettable cormorant fishing performance as the day’s grand finale.
This tradition, this ancient dance on the water, is more than a photo opportunity. It is a poignant reminder of a slower, more connected way of life. It is the whisper of history carried on the Li River’s current, a story told not in words, but in the graceful arc of a cormorant’s dive and the quiet wisdom in a fisherman’s eyes. To witness it is to touch the soul of Guilin.
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Author: Guilin Travel
Source: Guilin Travel
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