The Li River is the soul of Guilin. Its jade-green waters, winding through a dreamscape of karst peaks, have inspired poets and painters for over a thousand years. Most visitors experience this majesty from the deck of a modern, motorized cruise ship, floating from Guilin to Yangshuo. But there is another, older, and far more intimate way to cross these legendary waters—a method that has nothing to do with engines and everything to do with human ingenuity and the steady, patient pull of a cable.
These are the cable-drawn ferries, humble and steadfast, a living bridge for locals and an unforgettable, off-the-beaten-path adventure for the intrepid traveler. They are not just a mode of transport; they are a moving vantage point, a slow travel experience that connects you to the river’s rhythm in a way a loud, fast boat never could.
While the tourist cruises dominate the main channels, the cable ferries operate in the quieter stretches, often where the river narrows and villages cling to its banks. To find one, you often have to venture away from the city center, following smaller roads that lead to simple, concrete docks.
The design is a masterpiece of simplicity. A flat, metal pontoon, large enough for a handful of pedestrians, a few scooters, and perhaps a farmer’s cart, is tethered to a thick steel cable suspended high above the river. There is no engine. Instead, the ferry operator, a figure of quiet focus, uses a system of pulleys and levers. By angling the ferry against the current, the water’s own flow provides the primary force. The operator’s hands on the pulley system simply guide the craft, controlling the speed and trajectory. It is a silent, elegant dance with physics. The only sounds are the gentle lapping of water against the hull, the soft creak of the cable, and the distant chirping of birds. This is the antithesis of the roaring speedboat—a gentle, almost meditative glide from one bank to the other.
For the people who live along the Li River, these ferries are not a quaint tourist attraction; they are a vital artery of daily life. This is where the rhythm of the community is most palpable. You’ll see farmers transporting their morning harvest to market, their bicycles laden with leafy greens. Mothers with young children, students on their way to school, and workers on scooters all share this fleeting, communal space. There’s a brief, unspoken camaraderie as you stand shoulder-to-shoulder, all suspended together over the flowing green water. For a few minutes, social barriers dissolve. You are not just a spectator; you are a participant in the daily ritual of the river.
In an age of overtourism and curated, Instagram-driven itineraries, authentic experiences are the new luxury. The cable-drawn ferry offers this in abundance. It’s a genuine connection to a way of life that persists alongside, yet distinctly separate from, the mainstream tourism industry.
For photographers and content creators, these ferries are a goldmine. The perspective is unique. Instead of shooting the karst mountains from the shore, you are framed by them from the middle of the river. The leading lines of the steel cable, the rustic texture of the wooden ferry deck, and the stunning backdrop of peaks like something from a classical Chinese painting create a composition that is both dynamic and serene. Capture the focused expression of the ferry operator, the candid moments of local life, or a selfie with the incredible landscape behind you. This is the kind of unique content that stands out from the thousands of standard cruise ship photos.
The cable ferry is a poster child for sustainable, low-impact tourism. It runs on the river’s own hydraulic power, producing zero emissions. The act of crossing is slow, forcing you to be present. There is no rushing. You feel the breeze, watch the water striders skimming the surface, and observe the intricate details of the limestone cliffs. It’s a powerful antidote to the frantic pace of modern travel. This aligns perfectly with the growing trend of "slow travel," where the journey itself is the destination, and the goal is immersion rather than checklist completion.
Experiencing a cable-drawn ferry requires a bit more planning than booking a standard cruise. Here’s how to make it happen.
The most accessible cable ferries for visitors are often located in the outskirts of Guilin and in the countryside between Guilin and Yangshuo. Two notable locations are: - Daxu Old Town: About a 40-minute drive from central Guilin, this ancient town has a functioning cable ferry that connects it to the opposite bank. You can combine a visit to the well-preserved flagstone streets of Daxu with the ferry ride. - The Yangdi to Xingping Trail: This section of the Li River is famous for its hiking trail, often considered the most scenic part of the river. Along this route, you will likely encounter small cable ferries that are essential for hikers to cross tributaries or narrower sections of the river. It becomes an integral part of the hiking experience.
Using a local guide or a hired driver is highly recommended, as they will know the exact locations and current operating status of these ferries. A simple search on travel forums for "Guilin cable ferry" or "Li River hand-pulled ferry" will also yield specific coordinates and recent traveler accounts.
The fare is nominal, often just a few yuan (less than a dollar). It’s best to have small change ready. The crossing takes only 5 to 10 minutes. Be respectful and mindful. This is a working ferry for locals. - Stand clear of the operator’s workspace. - If you’re taking photos of people, especially the operator, it’s polite to ask for permission with a smile and a gesture to your camera. A simple nod goes a long way. - Be prepared to share the space with scooters and goods. - There are no life jackets readily provided, so assess your own comfort level. The ferries are very stable, but the water is deep.
The cable ferry shouldn't be a standalone tick-box activity. Its magic is amplified when woven into a broader exploration of the Guilin landscape.
For the ultimate Li River trifecta, combine the large tourist cruise for the grand, panoramic views, a bamboo raft on the Yulong River for a peaceful, idyllic drift through smaller karst formations and rice paddies, and the cable ferry for its raw, functional, and communal charm. Each offers a completely different relationship with the water and the landscape.
Use the ferry as a gateway to explore the villages on the other side. Often, these areas are less developed and offer a glimpse into rural Guangxi life. Rent a bicycle on one side, take the ferry across, and cycle through fields and small pathways, discovering hidden temples and friendly local cafes that you won't find in any guidebook. The ferry becomes the key that unlocks a more secret side of Guilin.
The cable-drawn ferries of the Li River are more than just a relic; they are a living, breathing part of the region’s cultural and physical landscape. They offer a moment of quiet reflection, a genuine human connection, and a perspective on Guilin that is both timeless and profoundly real. In a world that moves too fast, they are a gentle reminder of the power of going slow, of letting the river itself carry you across, just as it has for generations. So, on your next trip to Guilin, skip the hurry. Seek out the humble cable ferry. Take that short, silent journey. You’ll find that in crossing the river, you’ve also crossed into a deeper understanding of this magical place.
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Author: Guilin Travel
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Source: Guilin Travel
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